SAVEUR — ANYA VON BREMZEN — The piece describes the place dolma and sarma hold in Istanbul, whether baked, boiled or cooked in olive oil. Seraf Vadi, where Chef Sinem Özler interprets recipes collected from across Anatolia with fine technique, stands out as a destination for these dishes: wood-fired onion dolma filled with currant-studded rice, and chard sarma from the Black Sea.